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1 Cloth Serge
This term was formerly applied to a dress fabric made at Norwich, of worsted warp and wool weft. -
2 Orleans Cloth
Also known as Lustre Orleans. It is a plain weave cloth with fine cotton warp and worsted weft. It is very closely woven and used for dress purposes. A typical cloth is made 60 ends and 140 picks per inch, 40's/56's Egyptian warp. Botany weft. This cloth was first made in 1856 by Mr. Barratt, who produced the cloth as "Summer Cloth" at the request of an American customer. He produced a plain weave cloth, diagonal twill, three-shaft twill and a crepe. -
3 Gloria Cloth
GLORIA CLOTH, GLORIA SILKA half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving. -
4 Priest Cloth
A satin fabric, woven on hand looms in Bengal of silk yarns. Printed red on orange ground with the footprints of Vishnu, the Protector, and the lotus-shaped symbol of the throne of his wife Lakshimi, the Goddess of wealth. In the square panels is printed the sacred prayer. A priest (Brahman) wears this cloth after bathing during the time he performs his ceremonial worship to his gods and says his Sandhia or sacred prayer. -
5 Hair Cloth
A heavy twilled cloth containing wool waste and some calf hair. A nap is raised by gigging. Used for carriage rugs. ———————— This fabric is woven from very strong three-fold cotton warp and horsehair weft. Other material, such as linen, has been used for the warp. Usually made with about 44 ends per inch, and 80 to 100 picks per inch. The weave is usually the 5-end satin. Horse hair is not dyed, and the hair used is generally black, and is cut from both the tails and manes. The lengths vary from 30-in. to 46-in., and a single hair forms one pick. A special loom is used, fitted with mechanism for picking up the hairs and drawing them one by one into the shed. The shuttle for doing this is equipped with a pair of nippers. There is a rough fringe of hair at each selvedge. The cloth is very stiff or wiry and is used for coat linings. Formerly the cloth was also used for upholstering chairs and couches, and some is used today for this purpose (see Cilicium).
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6 Road Cloth
A number of roads in the United States have been laid with cotton cloth as a foundation for the asphalt. The preferred fabric is an osnaburg 75-in. to 90-in. wide, with 18 ends and 18 picks per inch. The sub-grade of the road is treated with a prime cast of tar-oil. After this is dry the cloth is placed directly upon it by unrolling. Each roll overlaps the previous one about 4-in. After that the distributor deposits a layer of hot black asphalt over the cloth. A road cloth used at Burnley, Lancashire, has 51/2 ends and 51/2 picks per inch, 4's warp, 4's weft, well sized. -
7 Chlorinated Cloth
Wool fabrics are treated in a chlorine solution to make them non-shrinkable when washed. The cloth when so treated is termed chlorinated. The treatment also increases the yarn's affinity for dyestufls and the dyed yarn is much deeper in colour than if untreated. This property is used to produce pattern from the same yarn by using chlorinated and untreated threads to obtain two tones of the same colour. This chlorinating process is also used for grey wool yams in order to make them non-shrinkable. -
8 Edafuhri Cloth
Cotton fabrics made on hand looms in the Maldive Islands in plain weave and mostly violet and green coloured. They are chiefly noted for the excellence of the dyes used. Although the price is higher than the cloth imported from India, everyone is expected to wear this native-made cloth on public occasions. The quality varies considerably. One cloth is made 44 ends and 40 picks per inch, 24's warp, 32's weft. -
9 Horse-Hair Cloth
The original cloth was made by a Paris manufacturer in the 18th century who patented a process to make horse-hair cloth for upholstery and this was very popular for some years but is now obsolete. The stuffing cloth now used as stiffening and underlining for coats is often made of glazed cotton or hemp yarn exclusively because of the high price of the horse hair. See Palmet fibre which is used as a substitute for horse hair as well as "black fibre." -
10 Indian Head Cloth
Many fabrics are shipped to India under this term and most of them are of the imitation linen style such as: - 34-in. wide, 40 ends and 40 picks per inch, 10's T., 8's W., preparation yams, cotton; also 34-in. wide, 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 24's T., 16's W., American cotton yams, dyed in several colours. Another cloth to which this term is given is woven 37-in., 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 22's T., 18's W., dyed and mercerised finish. Most of these fabrics are calender finish only. -
11 Silver Cloth
A dress material of French manufacture made of special yarns, composed of 80 per cent of wool and 20 per cent of vegetable silk, or Asclepios cotton. Mostly plain weave. A silver cloth was patented in 1934 after considerable research. The method finally covered by patent was to immerse the cloth in a solution of silver nitrate and follow this treatment by precipitation of the silver in the fibres by means of sodium carbonate. The resulting silver cloth actually contains about 9 per cent of silver and has a decided brown colour due to the silver oxide. -
12 Caro Cloth
A carded woollen fabric produced by special automatic machinery by the Caro Cloth Corporation. The cloth can be embossed or rubberised. It is cheap and resists wear. Used for overcoats heavy suitings etc. A cotton yarn base is used and the wool is ' needled ' into this base. The four rows of needle bars operate at 600 penetrations per minute. The sheets of wool fibres can be as thick or thin as required. The Caro fabrics can be produced very cheaply. When it is fulled the felting action is at right angles to the length and width and the more it is fulled, the stronger it becomes. -
13 Cashmere Cloth
A large trade is done in cotton cashmeres, which are generally dyed black, although colours are sometimes shown. The following are standard makes: - 56-in. full, 90 yards, 52 X 140, 36's/28's, 43-lb.; 41-in. full, 90 yards, 80 X 104, 36's/40's; 221/2-in. full, 90 yards, 78 X 114, 32's/28's, 25-lb. The weave is 2 X 1 twill, and super weft is used. Another cashmere is made with a cotton warp, which is printed before weaving, and either cotton or wool weft. Used for dress purposes. About 68 X 132, 2/60's cotton, 56's botany. The name is obtained from the Cashmere goat, whose wool was first used to make cashmeres. This wool cashmere is still made in Yorkshire. Such as 56-in., 68 X 140, 54's/18's worsted. A cashmere made for China with a few ends of coloured worsted at each selvedge is known as " Worsted Border Cashmere." A standard quality is made 36-in., 120 yard, 54 X 104, 36's/28's, 12 ends worsted each side. The cloth is dyed and has a special lustrous finish. See also Coburg, Henrietta, Jockey Cloth, Paramatta, which are all cashmeres. -
14 Covert Cloth
A woollen cloth made with two-fold warp and single weft, very closely woven. It is a fine warp twill weave, and the weft does not show on the face. Venetian coverts have a rib twill weave. For medium weight suitings and light overcoats, the warp is a two-fold marl yarn, and woven with the seven-shaft warp twill. The cloth is made 72-in. loom width to finish 58-in., 64 ends 60 picks per inch, 2/50's T., 22's W., all West of England yarns. A mottled appearance is a characteristic of this coating and is produced by the use of grandrelle yarns. -
15 Fireproof Cloth
Cotton cloth treated with various chemical solutions is rendered flameproof, but only asbestos is truly fireproof. For fabrics that are not to be washed, sodium tungstate, borax, boric acid, aluminium acetate or sodium silicate are used mixed with some organic salt such as gypsum, chalk, Epsom salts, china clay, alum, etc. For fabrics that are to be washed such as flannelette - A soaking in a solution of sodium stannate and then in a solution of ammonium sulphate, dried and washed, will render the material flameproof. This process forms a more or less insoluble compound on the fibre. Other compounds used are aluminium sulphate and after-treatment with desodium hydrogen phosphate, to form aluminium phosphate on the fibre (see Asbestos cloth) -
16 Curtain Cloth
The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving. -
17 Manta Cloth
A plain weave cloth of no particular style for shipping to Columbia. Most of the cheaper plains come under this name. The real manta cloth is an unbleached cotton muslin, woven in Mexico and used for many articles of wear. About 36-in. wide, 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 32's T., 34's W. -
18 Cadet Cloth
A woollen coating fabric with a nap finish. Woven in five-shaft doeskin twill, three up two down, giving a warp face. Other twills are used, but this gives the best results. The colour is bluish grey, and the cloth is used for uniforms in military schools. -
19 Corselette Cloth
This is actually a brassiere cloth, but woven about 18-in. wide, with a broad selvedge as illustrated. The warping is two threads cotton and one thread rubber covered with a fine cotton thread. The take-up of the cotton ends is 100 per cent. Coarse rayon coloured weft is used, generally pink, but cream and pale blue are sometimes seen. One quality has 30 ends 2/24's cotton and 15 ends of rubber per inch, with 50 picks of 450 denier rayon. Dobby effects are used for figuring
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20 Down Cloth
A fabric made for ladies' mantles for cold climates. The yarns were spun from mixtures of wool and down from aquatic birds. A layer of carded wool was covered with down and a second layer of carded wool placed over this then all was carded together. This mixture yarn was used as weft with a combed wool warp.
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